When I read in The New York Times that La Grenouille, my favorite restaurant in New York City, was closing after 60 years of service, it struck a personal chord. La Grenouille wasn't just a place to dine — it was an institution, a pillar of culinary excellence. Its closing led me to think about the wave of local restaurants that have also shut their doors recently, some of which have been beloved mainstays of my dining experiences.
The closure of Cinque Terre was particularly disheartening. It was a place where the chef’s artistry was undeniable. The surprise of Patrick’s Roadhouse closing hit just as hard — after so many years, it had become a go-to spot for breakfast, familiar and comforting. In contrast, the closure of Talula in the Canyon didn’t stir as much sadness; it had never quite lived up to its potential.
Modo Mio closing for lunch, however, was a significant blow—not just for me, but also for my Rotary club. It was one of my favorite lunch destinations, and its absence is keenly felt. Another notable lunch spot, Casa Nostra, has also been closed for some time. It seems that Osteria in Santa Monica barely had a chance to establish itself before it too closed, while Lotus across the street had already disappeared. One of the more unexpected closures was the last of the Chinese restaurants in the Palisades, right next to Café Vida, which lost its lease.
Amid this sea of closures, there are a few saving graces for lovers of Asian cuisine. Sasa Bune in the Palisades continues to thrive, and Pearl Dragon (which took over the long-standing House of Lee location) is now opening for lunch with an excellent menu, well-managed service, and a loyal clientele. Dan Modern Chinese on 2nd Street remains a delight, with its standout dumplings drawing consistent praise.
The question of why some restaurants falter while others endure is a complex one. My three favorite Mexican restaurants — Lares on Pico (which I had the privilege of visiting when it first opened over 50 years ago), El Cholo on 11th and Wilshire (possibly even older than I am), and Monte Alban, known for its Mole and Birria — have all stood the test of time.
Locally, Café Vida in the Palisades is almost impossible to get into these days. It’s so popular that the sidewalks are often jammed with eager patrons, and many regard it as the best restaurant in the area. Meanwhile, a few high-end restaurants in Santa Monica have weathered the storm: Michael’s, once considered the best fine-dining establishment in the city, is still thriving, and Melisse, helmed by the talented Josiah Citrin (whom I consider one of the finest chefs in Los Angeles), continues to impress. Citrin’s Charcoal in Marina del Rey is a personal favorite of mine.
Other long-standing restaurants, or those that have successfully transformed, deserve mention. The Golden Bull in the Canyon has evolved into one of the best steakhouses in the region, while Orto, the successor to Jiraffe, remains a culinary gem. The Courtyard on Montana has even expanded, adding a new room to accommodate the growing crowds, complete with an authentic pizza oven and an Italian pizza expert at the helm—an example of how a dedicated chef-owner can elevate a venue.
So, why do some restaurants close while others thrive? I have a few theories:
1. Restaurants that streamline their operations, like Tacos Por Favor, are more likely to survive turbulent times, including the challenges posed by the pandemic. With no table service, minimal cleanup staff, and food served on disposable plates, their overhead remains low.
2. Ethnic restaurants tend to have a smaller, niche following compared to broader appeal cuisines like Sushi, Italian, and American fare.
3. Restaurants that offer ample space, good parking, and reasonable prices — such as Froman’s Deli on 19th and Wilshire — are easier for patrons to frequent, and it shows in their busy dining rooms.
In the end, the reasons some restaurants endure while others fade away remain elusive. Perhaps it's a mix of location, management, and luck — or maybe, it’s something that only artificial intelligence could decipher.
Merv Hecht’s latest book “The Instant Wine Connoisseur” is available on Amazon.
