Every town has a handful of institutions that define its essence. Establishments that are so beloved and intrinsic to living in a place that the city simply wouldn’t be what it is without their presence. Santa Monica’s open beaches and iconic Ferris wheel may be the tourist attractions but for anyone who’s spent more than a vacation here, Gilbert’s El Indio is the beating heart (or perhaps growling stomach) of the city.
Gilbert’s will be celebrating its 50th anniversary on Monday with a throwback menu, entertainment and a community party focusing on the history that has built up within its walls.
The restaurant’s current iteration came to be in the mid 1970’s but the man behind the legend was born significantly earlier.
Gilbert Rodriguez Sr. was born on August 31, 1928, in Texcoco, Mexico. After learning some life lessons from his father’s attempts at business (such as a lifelong distrust of extending credit), Rodriguez eventually moved to the United States to work in the fields, but due to cold weather, he switched to working in various restaurants in Santa Monica.
The extended family including his wife’s brother, Carlos Haro opened several restaurants, including El Rincon Maya and La Cabaña, which is still operating in Venice.
Rodriguez started working at The Branding Room, where the owner, Rick Oxman, appreciated his hard work and family values, promoting him from the kitchen to busboy and then bartender. Aspiring to run his own restaurant, Rodriguez bought El Indio on Pico Blvd and opened it on May 20, 1974, keeping the name and decor but adding his own personal touch (his name) to the sign.
Gilbert and his wife, Carmen, have since passed but the eatery remains a family affair with all nine kids (Carmen, Gilbert, Teresa, Fernando, Estela, Susie, Javier, Ricardo, Elizabeth “Chavela”) sharing in ownership. Some are at the restaurant day to day while others have pursued outside careers but the spirit of family and togetherness remains a fundamental ingredient to the business, even to those who weren’t born into the fold.
Credit: Santa Monica Daily Press
Longtime customer William Bolden has been eating at Gilbert’s since almost the very beginning having his first meal there in 1975.
“And this became a regular stop for me for breakfast and dinners and I became part of the family here at Gilbert’s, one of many, and it’s always been that sort of place from the very start,” he said.
He said the anniversary is a recognition of the way Gilbert’s welcomes everyone.
“Santa Monica has gone through a lot of changes. But the one thing that’s constant is this place. It hasn’t changed as far as the service, the food, the feeling you get when you come here, that feeling of warmth and belonging. And that’s why it’s a special place.”
Those deep community roots bore fruit during tough times, especially the recent challenges posed by the pandemic era closures.
Co-owner Ricardo Rodriguez said the community rallied around the restaurant in ways he could never have expected, such as rallying to provide the first round of umbrellas necessary to help convert the parking lot into an expanded dining patio.
The pandemic also forced some evolution on the business that had remained essentially unchanged for most of its life. Long a cash-only operation, they finally entered the modern era and began accepting credit cards. Rodriguez said the restaurant continues to do more takeout business and has become a little more computerized on the backend but the soul of the place remains unchanged.
“The pandemic helped us create a bigger, more loving community … the community came and surrounded us and loved this. And now we have a bigger restaurant, more takeout, credit cards … and yes, so it’s still a mom and pops place. It still is. But we’re a little bit more computerized.”
Their decades of goodwill and good cheer have spread Gilbert’s name far and wide.
“I can be all over, halfway around the world and people see my shirt and they go, ‘Hey, Gilbert’s’, I literally have been in Tahiti, Hawaii, Greece ... and they recognize it, it’s unreal,” said Ricardo.
While the restaurant may have its international fans, it’s also beloved by the locals as evidenced by the recent proclamation at City Council.
“So this is a commendation, whereas Gilbert’s El Indo, a cherished Santa Monica institution has reached a remarkable milestone, celebrating its 50th anniversary as a cornerstone of the city’s culinary landscape,” said Councilwoman Christine Parra.
Mayor Phil Brock called it the essence of community in the city.
“As Gilbert commemorates five decades of culinary excellence, the restaurant continues to be a beloved destination for locals and visitors alike, enriching the lives of all who have had the pleasure of dining there,” he said.
Co-owner Chavela Safron said the family plans to continue to build its legacy at the restaurant.
“We’re all working together as a team and helping build, just a beautiful place that Santa Monica and people from other communities could come and feel at home and kind of sprinkle some, some joy and love,” she said.
She said she wanted the restaurant to maintain its status as a place people wanted to go to and a place where people wanted to be part of the community.
“It is a wonderful place,” she said. “You know, so we have to continue that.”
The restaurant will be celebrating its birthday, Monday, May 20 from 3–7pm. Gilbert’s El Indio is located at 2526 Pico Blvd., and is open from 8am to 9pm Monday through Saturday and 8am to 2pm Sunday.
matt@smdp.com
