In the ever changing landscape of Los Angeles, locals in Venice Beach have found a second home at Hinano Cafe, a local bar celebrating 60 years of being, what owner Mark Van Gessel calls "the Cheers of Venice."
"At Hinano somehow all the different issues seem to disappear," Van Gessel said. "Young or old, straight, gay, [or] other preference, all ethnicities; everyone gets along. It's a really great feeling to see all the different barriers disappear and people just get along."
Also known for their signature "World Famous Cheeseburger," cold beers, wines, cider and sodas, Van Gessel shared that their quiet secret is that they serve the best breakfast burritos.
Hinano Cafe was established in 1962 by sailor Joe Larson who, in the 50’s, sailed from L.A to Tahiti and wound up becoming an extra in the 1962 Marlon Brando film Mutiny on the Bounty. When he arrived back from his trip to the shores of L.A, he came back with some extra money and inspiration to start a Tahitian themed cafe. According to Van Gessel, Larson was the first person to import Hinano beer in the U.S.
After years of building a following, Larson eventually sold Hinano in 1993 to Ray Murphy and when he passed away, Van Gessel, the current owner and New York native bought it in 1996 with fellow associates Andrew Schelick and Lee Glazer, who have since passed.
"I was literally playing roller hockey one day and some guy said this place is for sale," Van Gessel said, "and a guy at the bar told me he was going to buy it, gut it and make it into something fancy and I thought "that’s awful." So I bought the place, and have kept it the same."
A throwback to another time, Hinano looks and feels like the kind of place one would find right after docking from a long trip on the high seas. As you approach, the outside seating area is outlined by a long twisted manilla rope that leads you into a bar that upon entering immediately transports you from 2023 to an eclectic beach bar fused between the 70’s and 80’s. Each corner of Hinano has its own electric energy dressed in neon lights, hanging surfboards and vintage photos and memorabilia.
The bar itself is made from boat parts and when you look above you, the ceiling is rounded with wood planks that give one the feeling of being deep inside a ship's hull. There are five tv screens, two large pool tables and a rotation of local bands that play live every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. And as of this year, the "cash only" bar now accepts credit cards.
Local musician Steven Sherak’s band Urban Grass has been playing crowd pleasers like his original reggae tune "Miyagi Dojo Dub Squad" to Tom Petty covers like "You Wreck Me" for 15 years at Hinano.
"I live up the street and I consider us (Urban Grass) the cantina band from Star Wars," Sherak said. "There's an awesome eclectic group of people that come here, from tech geeks to old looking scalawags to surfers, everyone is welcomed."
A staple bar for generations of Venice Beach locals including Van Morrison in the 60's, Hinano has attracted performers like Billy Idol who did a free show in 2013 and Jackson Brown who Van Gessel said "showed up, stepped in and sang with a local blues band."
Local, Dottie Amante, who’s been going to Hinano since 2003 said the bar is fashioned in the vanity of a coffee shop in that the same people from around the neighborhood can be seen there after work, five days a week talking with old friends and meeting new faces.
"Hinanos is home, all the locals come here," Amante said. "If you’re a tourist we welcome you too. It’s the best place to unwind and enjoy great food. It’s just a great place that never gets old."
Magnolia Lafleur
Special to the Daily Press
